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Fit · 2026-11-04

Hoodie Fabric Weights, Explained Without the Marketing

What 280, 380 and 480 gsm actually feel like, why the same hoodie weighs different amounts, and how to ask for the number before you buy.

Hoodie Fabric Weights, Explained Without the Marketing — illustration from the partner catalogue

What gsm means in practice

Grams per square metre measures the fabric, not the garment. A 400 gsm fleece is dense and structured; a 280 gsm fleece is drapey and light. Neither is “better” — they are different tools, and the same price can buy either.

Most listings that say “heavyweight” without a number are describing the cut, not the fabric. The number is the only part you can compare across sellers.

The four bands

280–320 gsm. Spring layer. Drapes, stretches, shows the body. Good for oversized fits and mild climates.

340–380 gsm. The standard “heavyweight” band. Holds a boxy shape for a season, then softens. Most $25–40 hoodies live here.

400–450 gsm. Real winter fleece. Structured enough to stand slightly away from the body; heavier on the shoulders; slower to dry.

460 gsm+. Stiff until washed, then dense. Great for cold climates and statement silhouettes; miserable in a humid one.

Why the same hoodie weighs different amounts

Three reasons: different fabric suppliers, different panel sizes (an oversized cut uses more fabric at the same gsm), and different trims. A 450 gsm hoodie with a double-layer hood and metal tips can weigh 200 g more than the same gsm with a single hood and plastic tips.

Ask for the garment weight, not just the fabric weight. A seller who knows one usually knows the other.

How to ask

Could you confirm the fabric weight in gsm and the actual garment weight in grams for size L? If the listing does not state it, could you ask the seller?

If the answer is “standard”, treat it as 320–350 gsm and price accordingly.

Shrinkage and care

Cotton fleece loses 2–4% in length on the first wash, mostly in the body. If you want a boxy fit after washing, size up. Wash cold, inside out, and skip the dryer — the cuff ribbing is the first thing to fail and heat accelerates it.

Pilling is a fibre-quality signal. A hoodie that pills at the cuff after three wears will look tired by January, regardless of the print.

Quick answers

Is higher gsm always better?

No. 480 gsm is wrong for a humid climate and for a drapey oversized fit. Match the weight to the weather and the silhouette.

Why does my 400 gsm hoodie feel thinner than expected?

Fabric weight and garment weight differ, and a loose knit at 400 gsm can feel thinner than a tight 360 gsm. Hand-feel is not linear with gsm.